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Dec. 6th, 2008 | 03:25 pm

"these made me want to cry a little. not sure why. but they are very sad."
- genissimo

"That kind of feeling - is the worst side of russian
culture and aesthetics - to cry and to kill somebody,
to look at the icon and than smash it with the axe.
Bloody shit, I hate my russianess."
-dee_habermas


Magazine: Vogue Italia -September 1998
Editorial: Poupées Russes 
Photographer: Paolo Roversi


(click for bigger)



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Burton and Helena

Nov. 4th, 2008 | 11:43 am

British Vouge, December 2008...the whole editorial is too long to post, so I'll just do the ones with TIM BURTON AND HELENA BONHAM CARTER!!!! I am in love with these guys.

One time Helena posed for Maxim magazine. The pictures were way too decadent for a men's magazine. You can tell that the photographer wasn't used to girls who were this dark...or who refused to do sexy pouts and wear bikinis. Her face is so strong that you barely even notice the retarded headlines behind her head (sex! sports! beer! cars!).

helena_bonham_carter_maxim_cover_PkmLxdM.sized

VOGUE is way more her element.

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Links to bigger versions can be provided if asked for!
Also, I request links to other editorials staring this woman.

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Paolo Roversi

Oct. 24th, 2008 | 07:59 pm

Today's entry is on one of my favorite photographers... Paolo Roversi. Just as Italian as he sounds, Roversi has been working in the fashion field for many decades. He is the go-to-guy for Vogue Italia, but his work can be seen in every major magazine almost every month.

CM Capture 9
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His work is anything but modern - in fact, he's a big fan of using old equipment and old techniques (such as long exposure time and black/white). He has studied the history of photography and has great patience with his lens. This, as you can see, renders him utterly timeless and indispensable.

I'd like to say that Roversi is the reason all the kids are so into Polaroids these days, but most have never heard of him. That's quite unfortunate. Polaroids have come back into popularity because people are realizing their simplicity. Point, click, done. They have low exposure and contrast and often turn out blurry - they practically Photoshop themselves! It's the easiest way possible to create photos that look like they have a story to tell, whether they actually do or not. The subject of Roversi's Polaroids are never forgotten. You can feel the respect and intention behind each photograph. For art to exist, intent is not necessary, but it is validating. In fact, I would go as far to say that there are two kinds of art: intentional and unintentional. Intentional art is a lot more difficult to make, because once you have intent, you risk loosing authenticity. Unintentional art may be beautiful to look at, but it requires no skill or self-control. Some people prefer unintentional art for it's modernness and lack of pretension, but sometimes I feel it can be more pretentious.


I think he does nudes better than anyone. There's not a hint of vulgarity, and every image seems saturated with sadness and beauty. This is clearly a man who loves women; each photo seems to place it's subject on a pedestal. The portraits are especially heart-wrenching.

CM Capture 3


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all photo credits: paoloroversi.com

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another spring 09 show worth mentioning

Oct. 6th, 2008 | 08:18 pm

Giambattista Valli takes inspiration from many eras


These dresses defy gravity without the weight of crinoline layers or whale-bone cages:

Giambattista Valli spring 2009
Giambattista Valli spring 2009

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trains!

Sep. 30th, 2008 | 06:00 pm

I recently spotted a trend that actually makes me very happy: TRAINS!!

dior rtw spring 09
(Dior)

Balman spring 09
(Balman)

The Nina Ricci collection is particullary full of LOVELY examples. And the detailing is very well constructed.

MORE HERECollapse )

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Ad campaigns

Sep. 28th, 2008 | 04:22 pm

I'd like to comment on a couple of ads I saw in another LJ fashion community.

A fashion ad has many jobs. It has to reflect the feel/themes of the collection it advertises, it has to make you curious about what the designer has NEW to offer so you visit their store, it has to appeal to the artistic market of the fashion industry, and it has to appeal to the consumerist-luxury market as well.

This is an ad for Diane Von Furstenberg's Spring/Summer collection for this year. The second is great- it reminds me of a Dali painting, somehow.

diane von furstenberg add ss20083

diane von furstenberg add ss2008


While everyone agrees that no one does color like Diane Von Furstenberg, you must admit, there's a lot going on here! You can hardly see the clothes.

I direct your attention to the lovely young lady in the background...Natalia Vodianova.

Not many models could have crawled their way out from under this busy arrangement and still managed to mesmerize you and sell you things at the same time.

This is an example of a high-fashion model doing her job very well. She is very aware of her body and how the angles of the human face work with the aesthetics of black and white photography. She is not hiding behind hair products or makeup. In fact, she does most of her work without makeup on.

No more are the days of Christy Turlinton, who was famously quoted saying "I won't get out of bed for less than $10,000 a day". The fashion industry has purged itself of most of these women, with a few lingering veterans such as Tyra Banks and Janice Dickenson.

Natalia represents the new super model: you don't know her name. You don't know how much she makes. You won't see her endorsing face wash or mascara on TV. She defines class, not party-girl behavior. You won't see her in Maxim or in swimsuit calendars; she seems to redefine "sexy". The new supermodel is "poetry in pictures". She is not beautiful by societies standards, but by her own. She is a muse, not the punch-line of a joke. She gives her money back to her native community, but she doesn't promote herself on talk-shows. She has children but no eating disorders. She's a role model for our daughters, not something we try and hide from them on the top shelf until they are old enough to handle it.

Here she is in Versace fall 2008 ads, with Isabeli Fontana (Natalia is on the Right). I don't necessarily have anything against Isabeli, but I definitely think she's pales in comparison to Natalia. They are also different kinds of models and I'd like to illustrate their differences in this ad.


Natalia Vodianova, Isabeli Fontana

Versace fw 2008


In most of the other ads in this set, Isabeli is naked. Not in an artistic way, but in a "look-at-me-i'm-naked"
way. When Natalia is nude, it causes you to focus on the product. Isabeli usually stands behind Natalia and is not making eye contact with the camera. She seems to be there to attract the attention of a man walking by a billboard, who might then go buy what Natalia is wearing for his girlfriend. Isabeli is a man's woman and Natalia is a woman's woman, that's why they are in the ad together.

Isabeli represents the old and Natalia the new. I think these Versace ads are very symbolic of this phasing. Soon the women in ads will no longer be saying "men find me superior than you, buy what i wear to make yourself better". they will say "i am beautiful because i am female, so are you. wear what i wear because you love yourself". Notice that Isabeli and Natalia are wearing the same shoes, but when you Isabeli you think "stripper shoes" and when you see Natalia you think "innovation".

I'm writing about this because I'm tired of my dad rolling his eyes when I read Vogue, because all he knows of the world of women's clothing is COSMO, Target, and those skinny actresses on TV who wear too much makeup and inspire young girls to vomit their dinner into toilets across the globe. There is SO MUCH MORE to fashion! High fashion is a new artistic outlet that began at the turn of the century with designers like Paul Poiret and photographers like Pierre-Louise Pierson, and is still developing today. There might have been a bad time in the 80's and 90's, but fashion is recovering beautifully.

I wish people would be more open-minded and see the beauty they are missing. I'm not really talking about ad's of course, I'm talking about the work of Paolo Roversi, Steven Meisel, Mario Testino, Ellen Von Unwerth, and countless other modern photographers and the models, makeup artists, and stylists who collaborate and are making great contributions to the ever-shrinking-bank of artistic aura on the planet.

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some individual reviews

Sep. 26th, 2008 | 11:55 am

For a revew on Michael Kors, see eggplant

Diane von Furstenberg


I am NOT impressed with this collection, AT ALL.
It looks like she hired the Easter Bunny to vomit all over some chiffon, and called it a day. And whoever did the makeup made even the best models look like deep-fried lollypops. Diane von Furstenberg called her show "Rock Goddess". Uh... I don't get it! Which really makes me sad, because usually she is QUEEN of patterns and feminine incarnations.

diane von furstenberg spring 09 diane von furstenberg spring 09

CLICK TO SEE THE REST, PLEASE!Collapse )

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First Entry- check out the profile!

Sep. 23rd, 2008 | 09:12 am



Spring/Summer 2009


The collections are here! There are far too many shows going on during the multiple fashion weeks of New York, Milan, Paris, etc for me to cover them all, so I'll just comment on the ones I feel are more mainstream in the ready-to-wear world, or the ones I was particularly moved by, or disgusted by, etc. Also, I don't really pay as much attention to accessories usually, so I'm looking for someone who's interested to do a write-up on that kind of stuff. eggplant posted a brief entry on bags. Does someone want to do shoes? Or a show I missed? Just go to style.com and start writing what you think!

A little background for those who are new to fashion: it's DKNY's 20th birthday. Donna Karen New York is a cheaper spin-off of Donna Karen. For example, a dress by Donna Karen might cost $4000, while a dress by DKNY might cost $400. The same is true of the relationship between Moschino and Moschino Cheap and Chic, or for Marc Jacobs and Marc by Marc Jacobs. It's important to know the difference, because while some signatures/themes might be similar between a parent and daughter line, the POINT of it is very different. For example, hardly anyone over 35 would wear Marc by Marc Jacobs. It's just too youthful. If anyone has any questions that can't be answered by google, I can try and help!

Successes in Modernity:

So far I've seen a lot of great colors and a couple new silhouettes. New silhouettes are usually saved for the Fall collections, when you have physically more fabric to work with to build them, but designers are whipping them out early this year.

The silhouettes include some new favorites of mine:

BCBG spring 09 BCBG spring 09
(BCBG spring 09)

and some new "???"s:

DKNY spring 2009 DKNY spring 2009
(DKNY spring 09)

CLICK HERE TO READ MORECollapse )

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(no subject)

Sep. 19th, 2008 | 12:41 pm

 testing, testing!

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